Istanbul native Banu Muller's curiosity about anthropology, literature, icons of style, and travel culture has inspired and shaped her jewelry designs under her eponymous label Banu Muller Jewellery.
Having relocated from Istanbul to Shanghai, Muller designs jewelry that is produced by local artisans and goldsmiths. Her work draws inspiration from the rich cultural heritages and production techniques of both Turkey and China.
Banu Muller has lived in Shanghai for nine years.
Before we talk about your brand Banu Muller Jewellery, would you please introduce yourself?
I was undeniably an active, outdoorsy child – partly a tomboy. However, my fascination with jewelry began in my teenage years, inspired by the adornments of my grandmothers and my mother. Growing up, I was surrounded by exquisite pieces in my grandmother's and our home, including remarkable antiques and silver Art Deco items. And as a woman she had an immense wisdom, strength, resilience and open-minded personality, that even today guides me throughout my challenges.
Born and raised in Turkey, I had an international upbringing. After completing my BA degree in English philology and then foreign trade, along with my entrepreneurial spirit, I decided to complete a certificate degree in colored, semi-precious stones in Bangkok, followed by AIGS diamond grading and pricing certification. My curiosity about anthropology, literature, icons of style, and travel culture has inspired and shaped my collections.
As an Istanbulite, based in Shanghai, I design jewelry produced by local artisans and goldsmiths. My work draws inspiration from the rich cultural heritages and production techniques of Turkey and China.
These 18K Jade earrings from L'ejade Collection pay homage to Chinese culture, interpreting traditional Chinese hand-carved jade with a contemporary flair.
In homage to the Shanghai Art Deco period, Muller inlaid a Zuni black agate frame with 0.84 CT round cut diamonds, turquoise, and other stones.
Why, after living in China for a few years, did you decide to strike out on your own to build up your own company?
As an Istanbulite brand, my experiences of living in Moscow for three years and now residing in Shanghai for the past nine years have immersed me in a dynamic and rapidly evolving market. Banu Muller Jewellery was originally founded in Istanbul in 2004.
After many years in Asia, the vibrant start-up culture in Shanghai reignited my passion for entrepreneurship. Observing numerous successful start-ups led by accomplished businesswomen further inspired me to create my own venture in 2022.
However, I realized that I needed to build my network, secure my resources, and most importantly, cultivate a strong sense of confidence in my production line. Over the years, I have had the opportunity to develop a robust network of suppliers, skilled goldsmiths who still preserve the traditional way of jewelry making.
Muller has a certificate degree in colored, semi-precious stones from Bangkok, followed by AIGS diamond grading & pricing certification.
What makes Shanghai's business environment so remarkable?
With its rich tapestry of cultural influences, Shanghai encourages a thriving entrepreneurial spirit. The presence of numerous local and multinational corporations and startups alike, contributes to a competitive landscape that drives economic development. After living in Shanghai for a few years, I've observed a strong brand-oriented mindset among locals, particularly when it comes to luxury items and jewelry. However, through conversations with my local friends, I've also noticed a growing tendency toward individual, customized products that tell a story. Customers increasingly seek ways to express their individuality through unique offerings.
When designing, Muller does not use a computer; everything is drawn by hand organically.
What were you trying to bring to the local community?
In an age dominated by mass production, the preservation of traditional handicrafts becomes not just a choice, but a responsibility.
While designing, I don't use a computer, everything is drawn by hand organically, It happens as you go. In this technological era, everything is made by machines, and we must all support and preserve the traditional handicrafts and pass on next generations. In our workshop, traditions, handcraft techniques, co-exist with the modern techniques of jewelry making. I end up transforming jewelry into wearable works of art, which are proudly made in China, using Chinese jade which marks the perfection of our pieces.
What are the biggest challenges setting up a business here? How do you stay motivated?
A big challenge that comes to that is: myself. When you strive for perfection and hold yourself up to the very highest standards – I'm the worst kind of control freak in that sense - you put yourself under a lot of pressure for fine craftmanship. Moreover, there are always cultural, geographical, and industrial challenges in growing a business.
Shanghai is a vibrant environment filled with entrepreneurs and startups. To succeed in this landscape, it's essential to identify your niche and develop a unique perspective. Instead of merely following trends or being heavily influenced by others, focus on carving out your own space in the market.
This approach will not only help you stand out but also allow you to create a distinctive brand that resonates with your target audience.
What was the moment made you most proud?
The possibility given by the winner of the Loewe Craft prize, Chinese artist Lin Fanglu, and Art+ Shanghai Art gallery, for a collaboration that makes me incredibly proud at this stage of my life and career. Her works captivated me with their raw authenticity and emotional resonance.
Jewelry designer Banu Muller recently collaborated with Chinese artist Lin Fanglu on a special collection "She Blossoms" - a testament to the enduring power of traditional craftsmanship in the modern world.
Muller proudly presents the "She Blossoms" collection at the Art+ Shanghai gallery, accompanied by gallery founding partners Agnes Cohade and Ana Gonzalez.
What are you working on?
I am working on a collaboration - "She Blossoms" stands as a testament to this commitment, showcasing the extraordinary synergy between two creative souls, Lin Fanglu and myself.
Lin Fanglu, as a Chinese artist, has a profound connection to cultural heritage. My jewellery collection intertwines seamlessly with her art, being Turkish and having contemporary flair, resulting in a collection that bridges cultures and artistic disciplines. The idea to craft exquisite pieces is not only to preserve tradition but also to empower communities.
Lin Fanglu's artwork "She's Scenery" is displayed next to Muller's jewelry pieces. This juxtaposition creates a dialogue between past and present, tradition and innovation.
The She Blossoms' Collection brooch and pendant are the masterpieces of the collection, inspired by Lin Fanglu's work.
The She Blossoms 18K choker is a versatile piece which both can be used as a choker or the pendant as a brooch independently.
Who is a female-role model who inspires you?
I feel so lucky to have such incredible women wearing my pieces. My clients are my inspiration. I love seeing how they wear their pieces, how they layer, and how they pair things. That's when I am most excited! That can be said for when I see someone that I love wearing my brand at an event or occasion, or when I spot someone next to me in the hairdressers or in a restaurant wearing my earrings stacked up their ear. It's my favorite thing.
Founding partner of Art+ Shanghai Gallery Ana Gonzalez wears 18k lavender jadeite earrings designed by Muller.
Founding partner of Art+ Shanghai Gallery Agnes Cohade wears the agate stone pendant necklace from Banu's L'ejade Collection.
Do you have any advice for women entrepreneurs?
Be open, listen and learn from others! That's what I am always trying to do. I can't think of anything more important than surrounding yourself with experts, in whatever capacity, from as early on in your career as you can. Building strong relationships is critical to opening doors to new opportunities and most importantly, mistakes and failures are opportunities to learn and grow, that's a natural path to success.