Shanghai has another Michelin star in its making, the writing is on the wall folks.

I have been going to Jade on 36 since 2007, just two years after it opened. The restaurant was emblematic of "dining in the clouds" as one of the few establishments back then to be on high floors with vantage points of the city. Jade's bar was also always a nice place to relax.

The restaurant has been an enduring symbol of culinary avant-garde success in Shanghai having outlived countless other fine dining establishments in the city, some with global names attached (Sens & Bund, Maison Pourcel both by the Pourcel Brothers, Table No. 1 by Jason Atherton, Laris, M on the Bund, Joel Robuchon, Restaurant Martin, Sabor, and even recently 18 by Frederic Anton which just recently lost the chef's name brand, etc).

Jade on 36 is where Paul Pairet (Ultraviolet, Mr & Mrs Bund, Pollux, Charbon, Roodoodoo) launched himself in Shanghai and now, one of two chefs in the city to have 3 Michelin stars (the other being Stefan Stiller of Tai'an Table fame). The restaurant we can say, has been part of Shanghai's modern history.

But what's on offer today isn't of Chef Paul's making. Chef Olivier Pistre has been creating a "genre" of French cuisine since he landed as this establishment's executive chef in 2019. And this is the last week to catch a stunning spring menu. Really, if you haven't had it, you need to get down there.

Changing things up

Chef Olivier has Michelin cred. Having worked at Michel Chabran, L'abeille in NYC, and La Palme d'Or in Cannes.

Coming to Shanghai in 2019, he's made vast changes to the kitchen and has streamlined a system of procurement that allows him to get exactly what he wants. The Shangri-La Pudong is the brand's global flagship property, and with this goes the art of "sparing no expense" when it comes to sourcing the best ingredients. The idea of "Madagascar beef" just doesn't exist here, as it does at other properties where the chef and procurement teams are engaged in never-ending battles between quality and cost control.

This idea of "Classic French Elegance Reinvented" is something Jade has been developing into a memorable art form ever since. Each brunch I have been invited to, and each seasonal menu tasting has always left a lasting impression. Pistre's mantra is evident in his seasonal, sustainably sourced creations.

Every. Single. Time. I have spoken to him, he's talked non-stop about the hawk-eyed selection process of seasonal ingredients, and he goes on adventures to source things that you'll be hard-pressed to find elsewhere.

His spring menu has some stand-out dishes, that you ought to try before we bid adieu to this iteration of his art form.

The Veal Tenderloin

This dish takes me back to stories Chef Olivier has recounted time and again about his childhood, his mother's cooking, the rustic air of it, of delicious prepared meats paired with fresh vegetables. This dish whispers "French countryside". A veal tenderloin, that gives no resistance when you poke it with a fork, it's that tender and is complimented by earthy morrels (a type of mushroom) and crispy asparagus. A brown butter sabayon (a light frothy sauce made by whipping together egg yolks, and a liquid such as wine or champagne, but in this case, brown butter) coats the dish giving light, fluffy, richness. The veal jus, of course, ties it all together (ask for a little extra on the side).

The Carabineros

This dish was probably my favorite. Carabineros is a type of large red shrimp known for its distinctive flavor and vibrant red color, you may have heard them referred to as scarlet shrimp or cardinal prawns.

This dish represents the scarlet shrimp done in three ways. The first is a seared tartare tartlet, which is light and representative of "spring's eternal coolness." The body is lightly poached, without any frills. These types of shrimp don't need much augmentation, because they are surprisingly sweet with a subtle brininess compared to regular shrimp.

The head-jus consummé is part of what makes this a "destination dish," meaning... even if you're on the other side of town, or in Suzhou, or Hangzhou for that matter, it's worth the trip. It's culinary alchemy! Pistre uses a siphon coffee maker (also known as a vacuum coffee maker) to craft a head jus from the shrimp heads.

This isn't a gimmick, because the result is intense flavor infusion. He does this by placing the heads of the shrimp in the top chamber, to extract the flavor by vapor pressure, which then infuses a water base with an intensity and depth that is transformative. The process itself is a visual spectacle, elevating the dining experience from mere consumption to an event.

What makes this stand out, owes to the scarlet shrimp's unique flavor profile. It has a notably rich and intense flavor, almost buttery that can only be described as more robust and complex than regular shrimp.

This sort of inventive thinking makes me wonder, how on earth the Michelin guide has passed up Jade on 36 for the last six years. It makes no sense.

The French Pollock

One of the hallmarks of Chef Olivier's cooking is his southern French upbringing. Comparative to chefs hailing from Paris, Chef Olivier is from Nice, on the French Riviera. More specifically, Castel Plage. For him, seafood was the staple at every meal.

Delicate pollock, and I use the word "delicate" very specifically because the gently seared fish is done to fork-tender perfection. Bathed in a creamy lemon-basil sauce, you just want a bit more of it. Crispy pork neck, evoking rustic charm akin to artisanal bacon, interplay with artichokes for a harmonious texture and flavor contrast.

The Vibe

Jade on 36 is perched atop the Grand Tower. Back in the day, Jade on 36 together with its accompanying bar was a prime date spot for well-to-do expats given that it had high vantage points over the city and was one of the few western-facing venues that gave viewers the very unique picture of the sun setting over Shanghai with floor to ceiling windows. That part hasn't changed... the sun still sets in the west.

It's gone through renovations using a contemporary design with subtle Asian influences that put the space firmly into the category of "sophisticated." Rich earth tones juxtaposed with calming shades are broken up by splashes of jade green, a nod to its namesake.

Despite the "modern chic", the place has an "air" to it that softens its edges so it doesn't feel pretentious. Perhaps we can say that Shanghai isn't a pretentious place, but... there are some places. No, here, you can come for afternoon tea dressed in streetwear and you won't feel out of place. Which is nice, if you've got the time to sit by the window after tea and watch the ships sail lazily through the Huangpu River.

The Damage

Three-course lunches for the spring menu run you 388 yuan. These are great, but... we'd recommend splurging on the dinner sets, which is where you have selections for veal, steaks, and even lobster.

L'Elegance comes at 888 yuan for 5 courses.

La Quintessence at 1,188 yuan for 6 courses.

L'Intangible at 1,488 yuan for seven courses (don't miss the 188-yuan supplement for the lobster, you get the claws, and knuckles, all de-shelled and the presentation is gorgeous)

What's it good for?

Good for people who want a shot at envelope-pushing fine dining before Jade on 36 gets noticed by the rating industry (as they should). For now, pricing is worth it, and it's not difficult to get reservations (though Fridays and Saturdays can be tough.)

I mean really? Six years and not even a "selected restaurant designation?" Maybe "Shanghai is too big to do all at once". But still, Jade has been a fixture of Shanghai going on 20 years... and Chef Olivier is really knocking things out of the park.

For those of you who haven't had it yet, this is a unique time. Try the Spring menu before it retires, then go the week after for the new summer roll-out.