Director's Note: Positive feedback on Narisawa prompted other staff (myself) to visit this establishment. Having gone to another "Black Pearl" rated establishment recently for a friend's going away dinner that was priced similarly to Narisawa, I can say that there is no comparison. Either the other venue was misjudged, or Narisawa is redefining the standards of "travel-worthy" dining. Either way, this venue is bringing a new level of artistry to cuisine in Shanghai, and it's making inroads as the dining space was fully booked on our visit. Only two restaurants in Shanghai have made it into the World's 50 Best lists (Mr & Mrs Bund in 2013 and Ultraviolet for 6 years where it peaked at No. 24 in 2015 and 2018). Therefore, this is another upper echelon adding to our city's culinary scene. Should you go? If you believe food can be a form of art, then yes, absolutely. – Jacob Aldaco

Welcome to "Chic & Savory", your "navigation guide" to the vibrant culinary scene of Shanghai. Delve into exclusive restaurant reviews and the latest in hotel happenings, where we uncover the city's most delectable flavors and stylish dining spots (well, they don't always need to be stylish). Join us as we explore Shanghai's gastronomic delights with a sophisticated flair or homey goodness, bringing you the ultimate insider's perspective on where to wine, dine, and unwind in style.

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The Place:

The Shanghai branch of a Tokyo powerhouse. Over the years Narisawa has enjoyed a number of accolades, two Michelin Stars, a Michelin Green Star, a No. 1 ranking on Asia's 50 Best Restaurants list, and a No. 12 ranking on the World's 50 Best Restaurants list. Chef-owner Yoshihiro Narisawa has been at it since age 19 and has worked under some of the biggest names in the trade: Joël Robuchon, Frédy Girardet, and Paul Bocuse.

Calling this place a Japanese restaurant isn't entirely accurate. Even the chef himself would agree with that. The menu freely takes inspiration from the cuisines of France, Spain, Italy and China. Case in point: how many Japanese restaurants have you been to that start you off with bread and butter? Narisawa himself describes what he does as "satoyama" cuisine. It's cuisine that speaks of a more harmonious coexistence between humans and nature. It's a convenient catch-all term for a lot of verbiage we hear forward-thinking restaurateurs use these days – smaller footprint, lower impact, organic, sustainable. To that end, Narisawa is sourcing as much product domestically as possible – wild mushrooms from Yunnan and caviar from Qiandao Lake. Even the drinking water, they tell me, is sourced from a spring in Fujian Province.

The Vibe:

It's in that 1000 Trees development on Moganshan Road, but they do an impressive job of making you forget that you're in a mall. Automated floor-to-ceiling doors open and shut behind you to reveal a sparse and naturalistic dining room. Colors are simple contrasts – charcoal black, eggshell white and slate grey offset with the massive wood slab counter in the open kitchen. The centerpiece is a massive pillar adorned in Nishijin fabric that resembles a traditional Japanese monochrome painting. It only seats 26, plus an additional eight if you count their private dining room. Outside is a terrace among the mall's distinctive tree planters, where you can enjoy a tipple and views of Suzhou Creek.

The Food:

A prix fixe menu showcases said ingredients in a choice of 9 or 12 courses. To start, the bread I mentioned above warrants more explanation. The server doesn't just bring you a basket with a pat of butter on the side. Rather, you are presented with "Bread of the Forest." It's a mound of raw dough in a glass tumbler half submerged in a bowl of warm water surrounded by a variety of forest floor vegetation and moss. You can see that it's still rising. They scoop it out and place it into a heated stone bowl with a wooden lid and it bakes at your table. About 10 or 15 minutes later they serve it to you with a knob of butter that looks like a moss-covered stone. It's crusted in powders of dehydrated olives and spinach chlorophyll to add savory, bitter, and earthy dimensions.

Subsequent flavors speak of the season. So, at the time of writing, think: fresh, light, and delicate. Sweet king crab meat and fava beans in a Spanish-style croquette, is a good example. A dollop of Chinese caviar gives it some fine dining pedigree. Tiny purple perilla blossoms add some color and subtle sweetness. His "Five Taste" Scampi evokes suitably fresh and bright flavors. The sweet crustacean is served raw and topped with fresh bitter herbs, baby cucumbers and flowers. It's finished off with tomato essence. Clear as water, it's a complex and intense concentrate of tart, savory and umami.

Another course evokes a summer Shinto rite, the Gion Matsuri. It's a napoleon of eggplant in a variety of textures – roasted, pureed – and topped with shiitake mushrooms, colorful flowers and a clear gelée of tomato essence. It's intended to resemble the Yasaka Shrine, which gets paraded through the streets of Kyoto for the city's annual festival.

Some dishes venture into fusion territory, like a risotto with a bamboo shoot brunoise and tempura. It's finished with clam essence instead of white wine, giving it the pleasant brininess of sea spray. Other dishes are unmistakably Chinese, like a chicken and Jinhua ham consommé with fresh peas and abalone.

For dessert, you can expect classic Japanese flavors like matcha and brown sugar, monaka (a Japanese sweet made from mochi) filled with melon and sherry gelée, or a strawberry parfait with sorbet and milk ice cream.

The Damage:

Not cheap, but that was probably a foregone conclusion at this point. For the nine-course menu, you'll pay 1,300 yuan per person. For 12 courses, 1,800 yuan. If you really want to make a splash, might I suggest the drink pairings – six in total. They kick you off with a glass of Dom and bring out a succession of some fantastic sakes, many of which are bottled exclusively for the restaurant. That goes for an additional 1,200. A 10 percent service charge applies to all of the above.

Good For:

Dates, business dinners, and special occasions to impress guests that don't involve going to the Bund.

NARISAWA Shanghai

Opening hours: 6pm-10pm (Monday, Thursday and Friday); 6pm-10pm. Lunch is available 12pm-2pm on Saturday and Sunday only.

Tel: 186-1605-6980

Address: 7/F, Tian An 1000 Trees Mall, 600 Moganshan Rd

WeChat: narisawash