Frederic Jaros, renowned former pastry chef at Da Vittorio, and his wife, Xu Xinxin, have recently opened a two-story establishment in Xintiandi, featuring Michelin-level French-style viennoiseries and birthday cakes on the ground floor at VERIE Bakehouse (which stands for Very Effortless Refined Inspiring Everyday). However, the real culinary adventure awaits on the second floor, behind a hidden door, leading to TING – a reservation-only chef's table that soft-opened in June 2024. TING presents a pastry-inspired 10-course set menu of what the duo has dubbed "symbiosis cuisine," priced at 1,588 yuan (US$218.6), with an optional wine pairing for an additional 688 yuan. Each dish incorporates a pastry element – spanning savory to sweet – showcasing an innovative approach to the culinary arts that Shanghai has yet to see the likes of. The menu isn't just sweet, what most think of when they hear "pastry cuisine." Instead, it hones in on the techniques of and philosophy behind pastry cuisine, without the actual sugar levels.

The restaurant's name, TING, derives from Frederic's initials – FJ – which resemble the Chinese character 厅, found in the words 餐厅, 展厅, 剧院厅 (restaurant, showroom, theater), reflecting the ethos of the chef's dining experience as one that transcends the ordinary. Frederic and Xinxin invite guests to experience TING, where culinary artistry meets imagination and storytelling. While helming the pastry side of many notable restaurants, Chef Frederic spent half his career in savory. This unique background positions him as someone who has broken past the "pastry chef" label and forged a palette and career that is "unlike anything else in Shanghai and beyond," as he states later.

We sat down with Frederic and Xinxin for the release of the spring menu to learn more about the inspiration behind the evolving concept of symbiosis cuisine at TING.

CNS: Frederic, can you share a bit about your background?

Frederic: I was born into a family immersed in cinematography and the arts in Montreal, Quebec, Canada. Although many relatives pursued careers in the film industry, I chose the culinary path because I saw fine dining as a theatrical performance where chefs, servers, and cooks are the actors. I wanted to be the director of this show.

My culinary journey began at ITHQ (Institut de tourisme et d'hôtellerie du Québec), where I concentrated on Italian cuisine. I started my career in savory cooking and became the youngest manager at Le Filet, a Japanese-French restaurant in Montreal. Eager to sharpen my skills, I took a one-way ticket to Italy in 2016, where I knocked on doors and eventually landed a position at Contraste Milano. There, I was mentored by chefs Matias Perdomo and Simon Press, who inspired my interest in pastry arts. This is where I dove deep into the mantra that "If cuisine is art on a plate, then pastry is art beyond the plate."

After painstaking hours in the kitchen mastering sugar and chocolate techniques, I became the lead pastry chef, contributing to Contraste earning its Michelin star in 2017. I later joined Da Vittorio Italy and worked as the pastry chef at Da Vittorio Shanghai from 2019 to 2024.

CNS: What inspired you to open TING?

Frederic: TING is designed as a chef's table that offers intimate interaction with guests. Think of it as a live performance in a hidden gem setting. My interest in interior design and theatrical performance, combined with my wife's experience in leading fine dining projects, fueled our desire to create something new and exciting in the Chinese market. We aim to break boundaries and stereotypes, particularly the notion that savory and pastry worlds are separate.

CNS: Can you explain "Symbiosis Cuisine?"

Frederic: Symbiosis Cuisine is a new genre that merges the philosophies and techniques of both savory and pastry realms. These elements are not opposites; they can coexist and enhance one another. With my background in both areas, this concept felt like a natural progression, allowing us to explore new possibilities and break conventional culinary boundaries.

CNS: How was your transition from pastry chef to restaurant owner? What challenges did you face?

Frederic: Transitioning involved a shift from focusing solely on pastry to managing a brand, designing the restaurant, and creating a guest experience. My biggest challenge is the lack of days off; being a restaurant owner means being responsible for every decision, from hiring staff to repairing equipment.

CNS: What distinguishes TING from other restaurants in Shanghai?

Frederic: TING offers curated cuisine that blurs the lines between savory and pastry while providing a cinematic dining experience with a different thematic menu each season. I can guarantee there is nothing else like it in Shanghai, Asia, and beyond.

CNS: How has the Shanghai dining scene received TING?

Frederic: So far, we estimate that about 95% of our guests have enjoyed the TING experience. Many appreciate the interactive, creative storyline of the dining experience that boasts a throughline, from ingredient sourcing to plating. However, around 5% remain skeptical, associating TING too closely with sweetness just because of my pastry background.

CNS: What inspires you when creating new dishes?

Frederic: I draw inspiration from everyday details, like observing nature or cultural experiences. I translate these moments into unconventional culinary presentations.

I am a very visual person. If I don't see in my brain how it will look; I won't know how it will taste. I eat as much with my eyes and brain as I do with my tastebuds.

For example, our spring menu includes a canape, called Wandering the Maple Forest, that we serve with a house made of chocolate. This was inspired by Quebec's Sugar Shack, the rustic cabins that situated in the birthplace of the iconic Canadian maple syrup. The chocolate house is surrounded by "trees," resembling the forest where the maple syrup originates. Inspired by this setting, I recreate it using pastry techniques, but in savory form, for a plate that embodies the ethos of TING.

CNS: Is there a favorite dish on your menu?

Frederic: Yes, one of my favorites is Grandma's Candy, inspired by the candy jar dish it's served in that mirrors the candy jar every grandma has on her table. I created ravioli shaped like candy – called caramelle – using beetroot and spinach juice for color, evoking nostalgia while offering a playful twist on traditional flavors.

CNS: How often does the menu change, and do you have any signature dishes?

Frederic: We update the menu every three months to reflect the seasons (through not just seasonal ingredients but also an overarching story line that coincides with that particular seasons).

A signature dish is the TING salad, featuring chocolate-coated lettuce, bergamot sorbet mixed with freshly picked herbs using a liquid nitrogen technique, and purified tomato foam, which illustrates the connection between savory and pastry elements. I regularly incorporate ingredients – like chocolate, tomato, lettuce, beetroot, strawberry, and miso – that bridge savory and pastry tasting notes.

CNS: What are your future plans for TING and yourself?

Frederic: We plan to keep evolving our one-of-a-kind dining experience, perhaps incorporating elements of "magic" in the future. We are currently consulting with a magician (tying in even more to my family's theater background), but we don't want to spoil the fun, so stay tuned.

Personally, I aim to improve as a chef and entrepreneur while learning Chinese. We also hope to expand VERIE Bakehouse and explore collaborative events and four-hands events across Asia.

CNS: How can readers book a dining experience at TING?

Frederic: Reservations can be made directly through our mini program by scanning the QR code below.

If you go...

L108, 245 Madang Rd

马当路245号L108